changing a heater hose
Moderators: MICHAEL MEYER, Xtreme/T-Type, custom88, Lo Type
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- 2004 Site Supporter
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changing a heater hose
Well I got to work and my car is steaming from underneath the hood overheating. I open it up and like a little baby when you take his diaper off my T starts peeing coolant all over the place. Theres a hole in a hose which I'm assuming is a heater hose right on top near the AC stuff. It looks like it goes down and back up underneath towards the dash somewhere. I can only see the one end of it so I'm wondering if anyone has had to change one of these and if it is difficult, what tools are required (I have to borrow them) etc. I appreciate the help!!!
'89 Red (mostly) Lesabre T-type. Strut brace otherwise bone stock.
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- 2004 Site Supporter
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I have changed both hoses before. It's kind of a bitch to do but its possible. The hoses don't go into the firewall, but rather the ports for the heater core protrude from the firewall, and the hoses connect there. Just remove the plastic firewall cover, look closely and you'll see them. No special tools required, but some would probably make the job easier such as a hose clamp removal tool and an appropriate hose puller. If you want, evaluate the accessibility of the connections at the firewall, go to an auto store and find tools that you think would get the job done.
I didn't use any special tools. I used pliers to squeeze the tabs on the factory clamps and remove them. Then, I stuck a wide flat head screwdriver between the firewall and the end of the hose and twisted the screwdriver as if to separate the hose from the heater core port. Do that, combined with pulling the hose with your hand. Pull firmly, but don't pull too hard, I have heard of people breaking the ports on the heater core. Perhaps you should change both hoses so that you never have to do this again.
To get the new hoses on, put the clamps on them loosely first and then push them on to the heater core ports. Do them one by one... bottom hose first, clamp it, then top hose, and clamp it. Reply if you have any more questions.
Hope it works out for you.
I didn't use any special tools. I used pliers to squeeze the tabs on the factory clamps and remove them. Then, I stuck a wide flat head screwdriver between the firewall and the end of the hose and twisted the screwdriver as if to separate the hose from the heater core port. Do that, combined with pulling the hose with your hand. Pull firmly, but don't pull too hard, I have heard of people breaking the ports on the heater core. Perhaps you should change both hoses so that you never have to do this again.
To get the new hoses on, put the clamps on them loosely first and then push them on to the heater core ports. Do them one by one... bottom hose first, clamp it, then top hose, and clamp it. Reply if you have any more questions.
Hope it works out for you.
-Oren.
1986 LeSabre Limited Coupe.
Given to me by my good friend Ron, Summer 2003.

Given to me by my good friend Ron, Summer 2003.
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That sucks. It's not a pretty sight to see coolant spew all over the engine compartment. You know, you might as well check out any other hoses that look like they're on the verge of failure, since you're going to drain the cooling system. Just a thought. Let me know how everything turns out.
-Oren.
1986 LeSabre Limited Coupe.
Given to me by my good friend Ron, Summer 2003.

Given to me by my good friend Ron, Summer 2003.
Plan on replacing both hoses at the same time. If one is bad, the other can't be far behind.
Once you get the clamps moved, don't bother trying to pull the hoses off. Just cut the end with a utility knife. It's much easier on the heater core. Same goes for the end that connects to the engine.
Once you get the clamps moved, don't bother trying to pull the hoses off. Just cut the end with a utility knife. It's much easier on the heater core. Same goes for the end that connects to the engine.
1989 LeSabre T-Type, not stock.
New Best Time: 13.143 @ 106.62mph
New Best Time: 13.143 @ 106.62mph
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You're right it was a bitch! The hoses came off real easy but the clamps were a pain in the ***. The tabs were all facing the bottom of the engine; I had to use small c-clamps to open them up and turn them to the top. I've got large hands, so now I have large scraped up bloody hands. Anyhow I refilled it with coolant and went for a test drive. No leaks so far but when I checked I heard a weird very soft slow gurgling sound from around the water-pump area. What in the world? Anyhow I checked the coolant level again and topped it off and everythign seems to be fine now. Thanks for the advice & help, all in all it only cost about $12 for both hoses and about an hour of creative cursing.
'89 Red (mostly) Lesabre T-type. Strut brace otherwise bone stock.
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Well it's leaking from somewhere else now, comes straight down so I'm guessing the waterpump or o-rings on the hard lines. I'm going to redo all of it this weekend. I know they're on o-rings just kinda stuffed into their holes, any idea on the correct size for those or a part number?? I think I replaced one before and it may not have been the right size and that's what's leaking now.
At least I'll finally shell out some money for new tools.
At least I'll finally shell out some money for new tools.
'89 Red (mostly) Lesabre T-type. Strut brace otherwise bone stock.
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Well by hard lines I mean solid metal tubing. The heater hoses connect at one end to the firewall and the other to these tubes. If you follow the tubes they connect in behind the tensioner and waterpump on the block. They're not bolted on or anything just kinda stuffed into holes with the o-rings as seals kinda like dipstick tubes. Maybe I'm wrong and they are supposed to be bolted on or something but when I was changing my tensioner I slipped and hit the top tube and it broke the o-ring and out ran all my coolant. I got another o-ring but it wasn't quite as thick as the original so I'm thinking its that or the waterpump seal, the water is dripping down in line with both of those. I'll check it out more when I get the chance but it can't hurt to just replace everything.
Not really related to this but since I'm going to be working on the car so much I thought I'd give that MAF cleaning trick a shot. Now... where is the MAF and what does it look like and what tools do I need? I understand it's somewhere around the corrugated intake duct.
Not really related to this but since I'm going to be working on the car so much I thought I'd give that MAF cleaning trick a shot. Now... where is the MAF and what does it look like and what tools do I need? I understand it's somewhere around the corrugated intake duct.
'89 Red (mostly) Lesabre T-type. Strut brace otherwise bone stock.
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Where in cali is there another t-type. Where you at in this (sarcasm) wonderful state?
http://www.cardomain.com/id/daveg777
2008 BUICK Lucerne CXS
2008 BUICK Lucerne CXS
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I'm in Long Beach, theres another T about a block away but I don't know who owns it. My best friend in Jr. High had a white T and I've seen a couple of others around. I've seen 1 black, and 1 silver one, and the 1 white one all the others have been red.
'89 Red (mostly) Lesabre T-type. Strut brace otherwise bone stock.
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- Advanced Member
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- Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2001 1:00 am
- car:: Other GM
- Location: Southern Cali
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I have not seen one other since coming here in feb. The only other one I have seen was a silver one out in palm springs. I acutally never saw that one till looking at the pix I took later on, its in the background. My uncle just saw a white one out near LAX the other day. Its not like back on LI where I would see one every other day. There do seem to be a lot more on the east coast.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/daveg777
2008 BUICK Lucerne CXS
2008 BUICK Lucerne CXS